The last of the Way

Saturday 9 July – Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit

Both our guide book to the Great Glen Way and our host at Invermoriston told us that we would get more great views of Loch Ness and would enjoy today’s walk. But to be honest we did not feel it lived up to expectations. – or maybe the day did not stand a chance after yesterday’s stunning views!

Naturally enough, having ended yesterday’s walk with a big descent in to Invermoriston, today’s began with a big climb back up again! We gained height fairly quickly, back up in to the pine forests, but continued to climb for much of the first two hours. It was another warm day, and we were glad of any shade afforded by the trees at times. There were also some open areas with great views back towards the peaks of the Glen. It is always surprising to look back and see just how far we have walked!

We also passed a couple of unusual sculptures – the Viewcatcher, a circular structure made of curved pieces of Caledonian pine creating a picture frame, and then the whimsically-named Troll Bridge, whose handrails were entirely made of bendy sticks.

About half an hour in we were passed by a couple of runners, wearing numbered bibs, then a couple more, then a couple more …. So we asked one of them what was going on. It seems today was the Great Glen Ultra– an ultra-marathon running the Great Glen Way! That is 72 miles – and the start time from Fort William? 1am ! Crazy people! So they were a bit over half way when they started passing us, and we were still being passed at 2pm by some of the slower runners / walkers of the original 82 who started! Quite a challenge indeed, especially in the hot conditions. We were in awe.

There was no running involved for us today – no surprises there! After our long ascent we were finally rewarded with a big view of Loch Ness. We could see back to Fort Augustus, and even still identify Ben Nevis. We still couldn’t quite see the other end of the Loch though – it is so vast! Sadly, almost as soon as the views appeared they were lost as the path cut down through more pine forests, and eventually to some rough farm land. Here we were following a farm lane, with hills between us and any possible views of the Loch. This then wound through some moorland before we descended through yet more pine forests in to Drumnadrochit.

Today was only about 23km and with little to stop and gaze at, or to hinder our progress, we arrived in good time at our destination, a backpackers’ lodge on the edge of town. We were in time to watch the World Cup match England vs Sweden at 3pm, which they were showing in the lounge – an unexpected bonus. Even better – England won! There are lots of very excited English now eagerly awaiting the semi finals.

Sunday 10 July – Drumnadrochit to Inverness

This was our last day on the Great Glen Way. From here on we are mostly on road walking, so we made the most of this off-road day. We knew it would be a long day, and so were on our way by 8.20am after an early breakfast, under cloudy skies for a change.

It took us a couple of miles of road walking to get through to the other side of Drumnadrochit, a small town with a lot of new houses being built, and whose self-professed claim to fame is to be the centre for “everything Nessie”. Then we were back up in to (can you guess..?) more pine plantations. It has to be said though, this was a nice walking track, climbing upwards but easy walking on a soft carpet of pine needles. On the way up the hill we did have a view back along part of Loch Ness, and of the ruins of Urquhart Castle sitting on a little spur of land jutting out in to the Loch. They have found evidence of a Pictish Fort there dating back to 580AD, but the castle there now was built in the 13^th century and was the scene of frequent battles between the Scots and English.

From here we were back to a forestry road through Abriachan Community Forest before joining a minor road through moorland. Still quite a lot of ascent involved but nothing too horrendous for old hands like us! Our only views at this point were out to the north, across to Beauly. Sadly we have probably seen the last of Loch Ness (and not a monster in sight – apparently she is more likely to appear after about 5 single malt whiskies…..)

And so on to a new forest path through some Caledonian forest before meeting another old friend – a drovers’ road. The Highland cattle were moved south along this route on their way to markets in Falkirk, or even further south. This one travelled through more forest and plantations before reaching Leachkin on the outskirts of Inverness. By now we have had glimpses of Beauly Firth and of Inverness and we start our descent down in to the city. We are amazed at how much new housing is also being built here, and our hostess, Roz, tells us that Inverness is doing well and certainly in a growth period. Good to hear.

A long day, but such straightforward walking and, again, sadly not much to distract us. So we arrived at Glenuig B and B at about 3.30pm. And we have a small sofa in our room – bliss! We could relax with a cuppa before getting ready to go hunt dinner. Tonight we found a lovely little Spanish restaurant and enjoyed tapas – yum !

Just eight days to go now…

Distances: Saturday – 23km / 14 miles

Sunday – 32km / 20 miles

The Viewcatcher:

P1020148