Higher and higher

Monday 11 June Dufton to Alston

Of all the days, today was the one we expected would be the biggest challenge. We would be climbing the greatest heights, the peak being Cross Fell, at 893m the highest we would have reached. We would be ascending over 1000m in total today. According to our guide book, we would also face potentially our one real navigational challenge, finding the right route off Cross Fell, especially if the top was shrouded in cloud and mist. Plus the day would be some 32km long. We would also have some great views. So it’s fair to say that we woke with both anticipation and some nervousness. What would the day be like?

Oh joy! Sunshine and a largely cloudless day greeted us as we set out of Dufton. We expected the climb up to the first high point, Knock Fell at 794m, to be hard work, but it actually turned out to be straightforward, not too strenuous, and providing lovely views on the way up. Almost before we knew it, we had reached the stone cairn that sits atop Knock Fell, time to enjoy a breather in the sun. To the west in the distance were the Lake District mountains, between us and them a verdant valley with a patchwork of fields. To south and east lay uplands and moorland. And to the north – our route – were the next three hills we would go up, Great Dun Fell, Little Dun Fell and finally culminating in Cross Fell.

Fortunately each was connected by a high ridge, so the descents and ascents weren’t challenging, and they were relatively close together. In short order we walked from one to another, and by lunchtime were atop Cross Fell. It was odd knowing that we would probably never be as high again along the rest of our route – we believe that this is the highest point.

You might be expecting that England’s highest mountain outside the Lake District would be a steep climb and a real peak. In fact, the top is more like a domed plateau. At the top is a lovely four-sided stone shelter, guaranteeing a sheltered spot regardless of the wind direction, so it was a great place to stop for our lunch break, more than happy with our progress. And the initial descent, far from being a navigational challenge, turned out to be straightforward.

Great, we thought, now just the relatively level walk to Alston, what could be simpler?

It turned out to be a long, slow, tiring and boring slog along a gravel and often-rocky track for much of the way. We’d like to say there were some redeeming features, but there were none. Eventually we descended into the pretty little village of Garrigill for a reviving snack on its village green and then an altogether more enjoyable walk along the South Tyne River to Alston (though ‘enjoyable’ at the end of 32km has to be taken with a grain of salt….).

Definitely a day of two halves – and the conclusion to two of the longest and most challenging days we were likely to face.

Distance today: 32km/20 miles

View from Great Dun Fell to Little Dun Fell (foreground) and Cross Fell