Over the hills and far away

Tuesday 5 June – Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale

What a wonderful day!

When you open the curtains to a brilliant blue sky, it’s a great start. And it remained a great day, walking through dramatic limestone country with some of the best views so far.

Your intrepid explorers set off under sunny skies, fed and watered, striding up the lane out of Malham towards our first highlight, Malham Cove. Despite the name it’s not a beach; in fact it’s a limestone cliff, over which water once poured in a waterfall at the end of the last ice age. The water may have gone but it’s still impressive: a curved wall of rock at the end of the valley.

We have been to it before, back in 2005 when the four of us spent a few days in the Dales, and enjoyed our return trip, memories rekindled as we walked along the footpath up the valley, then climbing the stone steps to one side of the cliff, to arrive at the top for some superb views. The limestone at the top has been eroded over time into chunky blocks separated by fissures in which a variety of plants grow, lending it a chequerboard appearance. Peregrine falcons apparently are nesting but we weren’t able to see any today.

Time then to walk further up the narrow valley above Malham Cove, climbing steadily higher, a valley unusual in that it lacks any running water. We emerged at the top into rolling countryside and Malham Tarn, which despite its name is more the size of a small lake nearly a kilometre across. Its unusual to have a body of water of such size in limestone country as the water usually finds a way to percolate through the porous rock. It’s a rather lovely lake, with the Dales around it.

The Way led us partway down a wide farmed valley, typical of most in this area with its sheep and drystone walls, before ascending high up the slopes of Fountains Fell. We had wide vistas that seem to stretch on forever, heather and tussock around us bathed in sunshine, silent and peaceful, virtually windless, and virtually no sign of habitation, a truly beautiful place. The odd sheep could be seen, and a few people also walking the Way, but otherwise we felt a million miles away. We sat for many minutes munching on a snack and simply enjoying the peace and solitude and views.

Round the slopes of the Fell (actually a 660m high mountain) brought us the majestic sight of Pen-y-Ghent, a 690m high mountain and our next destination. Unfortunately, between us and Pen-y-Ghent lay (you guessed it!) a valley… pretty it may have been, but we still had to descend the slopes knowing every metre lost would have to be regained. We could see the steep, rugged sides and knew it would be an ‘interesting’ climb.

Fortunately, the ascent proved less strenuous than we’d expected. Having said that, there was one particularly steep bit towards the top which certainly was ‘interesting’ indeed (Val described it as ‘at the limits of my comfort zone’ and ‘more like mountaineering than walking’ !.) Finally, we were on top of Pen-y-Ghent (‘hill of the wind’), the highest we’d got to so far, and of course with some great views all round.

The mountain is part of the Three Peaks challenge, an annual event that sees competitors trying to go up three neighbouring peaks in the shortest time possible.  They must be mad!

The final part of the day saw us descend the western slopes along a seemingly-unending gravel path, to a farm track, and finally and thankfully to the small village of Horton-in-Ribblesdale. No internet, no mobile coverage, but the chance to sit in the sun outside the pub, enjoying a quiet drink and reflecting on one of the best days we’ve had since we started. Bliss!!

Distance today:  24km

Malham Cove:

Watlowes Valley, above Malham Cove:

Peter relaxing on slopes of  Fountains Fell

Pen-y-Ghent in distance  (Val in foreground)