Of Sunday papers and cabbage trees

Sunday 29 April – Perranporth to Newquay

Peter writes:

For as long as I can remember, visits to the UK have not been complete without partaking of that great British institution – the Sunday newspapers, and in particular the Observer and the Sunday Times. Each is a mighty read, full of plenty of news, superb columnists, wonderful football writing, great background articles on a range of topics, and enough reading to keep me going for hours. But they are not only weighty in content, they are weighty in, well, weight.

The first Sunday on the walk was going to pose an interesting challenge. Of course, I was not going to be able to buy and carry both newspapers. For one thing, I wouldn’t have time to read them! So it would have to be just one. But what to do? Do I wait until the next destination, and run the risk of their being neither of my favourite papers? Or do I buy one at the start of the day, but have to carry it 21 km? The sensible person would do the former. Guess what I did…

Oh, but it was worth it.

Now back to the joint commentary team.

Our room gave us a stunning view overlooking the beach, and at first light the air and the sky simply glowed. It was going to be  great day! After breakfast in the pub’s gloriously-located cafe overlooking the sea, today’s walk took us from Perranporth along the coast to the seaside and surfing Mecca of Newquay. The first part was along the wide sandy beach north of the town, at low tide several hundred metres wide and an excellent way to carry us the first part of the day. Then we were up on the hills again for another day of hillside walking, though this time with fewer cliffs and more gentle slopes. Like yesterday it was a mostly sunny if cool day, and fortunately the wind had dropped quite a lot. Being a Sunday, and close to several settlements, the track was also surprisingly busy. We wondered what it would be like at the height of the season, and shuddered at the thought.

Newquay was the largest town we have been in since leaving St Ives three days ago, and it felt rather odd to be surrounded by so many people. Mind you, it also meant a range of amenities – including a very nice Indian restaurant, recommended by 2 walkers we met in Perranporth, with great views high on the cliff overlooking the beach!

As for those cabbage trees, this icon of New Zealand seem to be ubiquitous throughout Cornwall. We first saw one in the next door garden to our B&B in Penzance, and there was one close by at every B&B since, lurking in the garden or in a tub or somewhere nearby. We joked that perhaps they weren’t real cabbage trees, but alien beings or triffids sent to keep a watch on us. Sssssh… Keep your voice low, there’s one outside as we type this…

Day 5: 20km