Who needs Switzerland?

Monday 2 July – Kinlochleven to Fort William – Day 69

Sad to leave our very comfortable Ghlasdruim B and B at Glencoe, we set off at 9am to catch the bus out to Kinlochleven, about 15 minutes away. This was where we rejoined the West Highland Way path for the last section in to Fort William. Being another hot and sunny day, we were very glad to have made a last minute decision to have our packs transported again today. The added weight of the pack does make a huge difference to the enjoyment (or not) of the day when the temperature and the distance are in the mid 20s.

The first half hour was a reasonably steep climb up and out the back of the village to join another old military road which we were to follow through a glen, the valley of the Allt Nathrach river. Though steep, it was a well-maintained path, and at the top we had great views back over Kinlochleven. We didn’t linger long though – the horseflies were out again! The path wound along a little, past the site where a new extra hydro plant is under construction, and then….

Wow!  Again.  Yes, second time in two days!  As we came off a slight curve in the path, there ahead of us lay a beautiful valley, a small stream at its bottom, the path winding along, high peaks on either side. Both of us were instinctively prompted to comment that this is what we would expect from somewhere like Switzerland rather than Scotland! Well, maybe the Alps are a wee bit higher, but if you were to add a few chalets and a bit of snow and perhaps someone yodelling we think it would be close!

It was great walking, a good reasonably level track, fabulous views – just gorgeous. And it continued on for about 7km / 4 miles, about 2 hours walking time. There was a slight breeze too, which kept the temperature bearable and the flies minimal. Along the way were some ruins of old farm houses – it has to be said that it would have been a tough existence out there especially in the harsh winter conditions. A few sheep still graze in the valley but no current dwellings to be seen.

We would have been happy for this scenery to continue right through to Fort William but of course all good things end.  And this did in spectacular fashion.  At the end of the valley the path swung round and entered a forestry area and passed through clear felled areas which really just looked fairly desolate after the beauty of the morning.

At this point the official Way path heads up through the conifer forest and over a hill and then winds it way down to Fort William, along the pavement of the A82 for the final 2 miles. We elected to take an alternative route -a quiet country road that circled round the aforementioned hill, stayed away from the conifer forest and gave great views of Ben Nevis before entering Fort William. As we have said before, we are not wedded to completing every inch of any particular path – just completing LEJOG. Ben Nevis is indeed a stunning sight – the highest peak in Great Britain. No snow at this time of year, its bare shoulders certainly tower above the surrounding peaks.

And so into Fort William and to our accommodation for the next three nights. Originally we were to have two rest days, but having rethought that we are having one rest day and then splitting our rather lengthy next walking day by completing part of it on what would have been rest day number two.

Distance today: 24km / 15 miles

Above and below: our favourite glen

Ben Nevis: