Tuesday 12 June Alston to Haltwhistle
Today’s walk was the polar opposite to yesterday’s – no steep climbs, no fabulous views from high fells, no potential navigational hazards. Today we had chosen to temporarily abandon the Pennine Way and to follow the South Tyne Rail Trail. It was a lovely, pleasant, level trail and easy walking – just what we needed after the past few days, particularly as today we were back to carrying our packs for the first time in about two weeks! So it was good to break back in to that gently.
We picked up the trail in the centre of Alston, at the old railway station strangely enough. A band of mostly voluntary enthusiasts have restored a few miles of the track and run a (diesel, we think) train for visitors each day. So initially we were walking along side the railway track, but eventually that petered out and we were on to the trail proper. The surroundings varied from fields to stretches of woodland – very pleasant indeed. And it was another fine day.
One big surprise along the way was the Lambley Viaduct – a huge structure that carried the railway across the South Tyne River and valley. We knew there was a viaduct but weren’t expecting something quite that big!
We were able to follow the trail in to the outskirts of Haltwhistle, and then find our way over a second viaduct in to the town centre, where we had agreed to meet Peter’s cousin Gillian and her husband Michael. They had very kindly offered to drive all the way from Morpeth to pick us up, and then to drop us back the next morning, so that we could enjoy an extra night with them. Fabulous – we will have four nights to enjoy their company and what is more – four nights in the same bed! It’s amazing how such a simple thing becomes a luxury! Bliss!
Distance today: 24km
Wednesday 13 June Haltwhistle to Bellingham
Today was …….. well, overall best forgotten for Peter at least! A cold he had been brewing for a couple of days finally blossomed and sadly he had a miserable day. But fortunately for our Grand Adventure he ploughed on and we managed to get through what was a long days walking.
Gillian returned us to Haltwhistle and we picked up the Pennine Way again. Walking out through the village we followed a river valley until we eventually picked up the path that took us up to join Hadrian’s Wall. As most of you are probably aware, the Wall dates back to approximately AD130 and was built by the Romans to keep the marauding barbarians restricted to the north, in what is now mostly Scotland. It ran from the Tyne on the east coast right across to Solway on the west coast – a distance of some 117km or 73miles – and would originally have been about 5m or 15feet high. An impressive structure by anyone’s standards! There is still plenty of the wall and its associated milecastles (strongpoints where the Wall garrisons were billeted) to be found– some has been restored, some has been left “as is”. Along the way there are various information centres with exhibits and interpretation, and so this really is a popular tourist attraction. There were many walkers and day visitors around today.
Whilst fascinating to see, the big snag with the Pennine Way following the course of the wall so closely for about 6km (4 miles) is that there are many climbs and drops as it follows a natural escarpment – very reminiscent of the South West Coast Path but without the spectacular coastline! But at least it was at the beginning of the day! As we peeled off and dropped down to cross some moorland we were able to look back and see what the Wall would have looked like from a barbarian’s point of view – very imposing up on the ridge of the escarpment.
From then on the Way tracked across a mix of moorland, farmland and farm tracks. Towards the end of our day we peeled off the Way again and followed a country lane in to Bellingham (pronounced Belling-jam) where we had arranged to meet Gillian and Michael again.
By then we were very glad to be looking forward to two rest days. The last few days have been taxing and it will be great to have a break. We are also looking forward to catching up with Peter’s aunts and having a stroll around the pretty town of Morpeth, which sits on the Wansbeck River in Northumberland.
Distance today: 32km
Lambley Viaduct
Just Roman’ along…
Scrumpy to Scotch 