Ah, communication. We take it for granted. In the 21st century, that means the internet and mobile phones. It works a treat… until you’re out of coverage.
Coming from New Zealand, we are used to gaps in mobile coverage, but we imagined the UK would have saturation coverage. What has surprised us has been the significant parts of the UK where coverage is scanty or actually non-existent – as we have found the past couple of nights. Arriving at a pub and seeing no bars on your mobile phone is somewhat surprising! We could get patchy mobile phone signal in both places, enough for a text, but as for internet – forget it. That’s why you are getting three days in the one blog. But – as the Rocky Horror Picture Show would say – ‘the antici…………..pation!’
Monday 14 May – Bath to Tormarton
After our rest day we were feeling invigorated and ready for the next stage, along the Cotswold Way. And on a sunny day in late spring, there can be no finer place to be walking than the Cotswolds with its rolling hills, wooded forests, lush countryside, pale stone buildings and charming villages.
Our walk today took us up from Bath, to Weston, and high up on the hills to some great views west out towards Bristol, the Severn River, and Wales in the distance. It was a fairly gentle day with no challenging steep bits, largely rural through a variety of farmland – sheep, cows and arable. After the peace of the countryside it was a shock to encounter the noise of the M4 motorway, a reminder of the real world (or is it us living in the real world?)
The Cotswold way is not only great to walk, it is very well signposted, making it a pleasure to walk.
During the afternoon we encountered a number of runners, aiming to run 100 miles (160km) in four days as part of a charity fundraiser. This was their last day and it has to be said that some of them were looking the worse for wear!
It was great to have a ‘guest walker’, not only for a change in conversation but also as the bearer of sweets! (Jelly babies to be precise)…. Mary can definitely come again!
We arrived in the village of Tormarton which, despite its proximity to the motorway, was very quiet and peaceful. We were staying at another lovely B&B, The Old Smithy, and our host Joanna greeted us not only with a hot drink but some delicious brownie. After freshening up it was (surprise!) time for the three of us to repair to the local pub for dinner.
Tuesday 15 May – Tormarton to North Nibley
Yes, there really is a village called North Nibley! And we were very glad to arrive there at about 6pm after our second day on the Cotswold Way. It was another gorgeous day – in fact even warmer – definitely shorts, t shirt and sunblock weather. And the scenery is still stunning, with expansive views – and the Severn River rewardingly getting ever closer.
From Tormarton we travelled through Old Sodbury and Little Sodbury, through to Horton and Hawkesbury Upton, across to Wooton-under-Edge and finally to the Black Horse Inn at North Nibley. Don’t you just love the names – so English!
The three of us had fabulous home made pies for our dinner (far too much food; must eat less tomorrow!) and then rolled upstairs o our rooms to sleep :}
Wednesday 16 May – North Nibley to Painswick
A cloudy and cooler day, in many ways better for walking even though the hazy conditions didn’t quite do justice to the views.
It was certainly a lot more hilly than the past two days, but we had a good variety of terrain, from open farmland to lovely woodland tracks. In fact today probably had the most woodland walking – it was quite divine and although they are almost over now the bluebells carpeting the woods still gave them a magical blue sheen.
We passed a Neolithic tomb at Nympsfield which was approximately 5,500 years old – it is staggering to consider that we were touching stones that had been manouvered into placed by folk who lived so long ago. The Cotswold area alone has nearly one hundred such Neolithic tombs.
Our route today took in Dursley, through wooded forests to Middleyard, then to Kings Stanley for a very welcome hot drink and slice of chocolate cake, round the edges of Stroud and finally to the delightful town of Painswick. The 16th century coaching inn where we are staying, The Falcon Inn, is not only a superb little hotel but also has fond memories for us – we stayed here with Genevieve and Catherine back in 2002, so it was lovely to be back. Despite our best intentions from the previous night of just having light meals, our appetites and the divine meals on offer overcame our resistance… and it was worth it!
Distances: Bath to Tormarton 26km, Tormarton to North Nibley 26km, North Nibley to Painswick 25km.
Scrumpy to Scotch 